The viral Korean skincare trend promises a flawless glow. But as dermatologists warn, complicated routines and unrealistic expectations could be doing your skin more harm than good.
You’ve probably seen it on social media.
Skin so smooth, glossy and seemingly flawless that it almost looks like glass. Seven layers of toner, multiple serums, an essence, a moisturiser and perhaps another product to finish.
But here’s a question worth asking: what if the routine you’re following to achieve healthier skin is actually making it worse?
On 8 October 2026, CNN published an article highlighting the potential risks associated with the viral Korean glass skin trend. Dermatologists warned that complicated skincare routines, excessive product layering and the misuse of active ingredients can contribute to irritation, breakouts and damage to the skin’s protective barrier.
It’s an important conversation, especially as Korean skincare continues to grow in popularity.
But there’s something we need to make clear from the beginning: Korean skincare isn’t the problem.
The problem begins when we confuse an appearance we see online with what our own skin actually needs.
What did CNN report?
In its October 2026 report, CNN shared the experience of skincare creator Greta Costioli, who became known online for her glass skin routines.
She experimented with extensive product layering, including applying seven layers of hydrating toner.
At first, her skin seemed to love it. But by using so many products, she kept damaging her skin barrier. She developed small red bumps that lasted a few days, and they became more aggressive the longer she kept going. In the end, she cut down the number of steps.
Her experience highlights something important: a product or routine can make your skin look good initially without necessarily being suitable for continued use.
And the concerns extend beyond one person’s experience.
Nearly 95% of the videos studied contained potentially misleading information
Research presented at the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology Congress in September 2026 examined 38 popular TikTok videos featuring Korean skincare and glass skin routines.
The researchers found:
- Almost 95% contained at least one potentially misleading claim.
- 84% did not account for differences between skin types.
- 45% promoted combining multiple active ingredients without adequate safety advice.
- 32% promised immediate results.
Only one of the 38 videos mentioned the risk of irritation, and just two addressed sun protection. None mentioned contact dermatitis or suggested seeing a dermatologist, and none were made by dermatologists.
These are concerning findings, although it’s important to recognise that the research examined a relatively small selection of popular videos. It does not establish that all Korean skincare advice is unreliable, nor does it measure how frequently these routines cause actual skin damage.
What it does highlight is a significant gap between the skincare advice being shared online and the information people need to make safe decisions.
Read the EADV research announcement.
What exactly is glass skin?
Glass skin is a beauty concept associated with South Korean skincare culture. It describes skin that looks exceptionally smooth, clear, hydrated and luminous.
There are positive principles behind this approach.
Korean skincare has helped popularise thoughtful cleansing, hydration, moisturising and daily sun protection. Many formulations focus on supporting the skin barrier and making skincare comfortable and enjoyable.
None of those principles is inherently problematic.
The confusion starts when achieving the appearance of glass skin becomes associated with following a fixed number of steps or purchasing increasingly large numbers of products.
More hydration does not automatically mean healthier skin. And more products do not automatically mean better results.
A well-formulated moisturiser may already contain ingredients such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid and ceramides. Adding three separate hydrating serums may feel luxurious, but it isn’t necessarily giving your skin something it was missing.
That doesn’t mean layering is wrong. It means every additional product should have a purpose.
When does a skincare routine become too much?
1. Combining too many active ingredients
Retinol, vitamin C, salicylic acid and exfoliating acids can all have a valuable place in skincare.
However, they do different jobs, and how they’re formulated and used matters.
For example, the American Academy of Dermatology notes that exfoliating while using retinol or a prescription retinoid may worsen dry skin or even cause breakouts.
It is also easy to overlook ingredients already present in products marketed as toners, pads or essences.
A hydrating toner and an exfoliating toner are not interchangeable simply because they share the same product category.
This doesn’t mean certain ingredients can never be used within the same routine. It means the combination, concentration, frequency and your skin’s tolerance all matter.
2. Ignoring the warning signs from your skin barrier
Your skin barrier is the outer protective layer of your skin. It helps retain moisture while limiting the entry of irritants and other external substances.
Dermatologist Dr Mona Gohara told CNN that signs of a damaged barrier include:
- Tightness or itchiness.
- Tenderness or inflammation.
- Flaking or scaling.
- Redness, or darker patches, depending on your skin tone.
Over-exfoliation, harsh cleansing and poorly tolerated products can all contribute to these problems.
And sometimes, the mistake is responding to that irritation by adding even more skincare.
A new soothing serum might seem like the answer, but your skin may simply need fewer potentially irritating products while it recovers.
3. Chasing an unrealistic version of perfect skin
This is perhaps the part of the glass skin conversation that deserves more attention.
Healthy skin has pores. Healthy skin has texture. Healthy skin can have pigmentation, fine lines and occasional breakouts.
Pore visibility, oil production and skin texture are influenced by factors including genetics, age and individual skin characteristics.
New York dermatologist Dr Jane Yoo told CNN that poreless skin simply isn’t achievable, because pores are genetic and don’t respond to layering more products. We looked at this in detail in Glass Skin, Honestly, including what the pore research really shows and why everyday habits matter more than genes.
Skincare can improve the appearance of some concerns, but it cannot eliminate pores or permanently create the filtered appearance often presented online.
Lighting, makeup and image processing can also dramatically change how skin looks on a screen.
When we compare our everyday skin with an idealised image, it’s easy to start looking for problems that don’t necessarily need correcting.
And that’s when skincare can become a cycle of constantly buying and trying something new.
So, do you really need a 10-step Korean skincare routine?
No. And you don’t need to abandon a longer routine if it works well for you, either.
There is nothing automatically harmful about enjoying a toner, essence, serum and moisturiser together.
The important distinction is between layering products that suit your skin and repeatedly introducing ingredients without understanding their purpose.
For most people, a sensible starting point is much simpler. Dr Yoo suggests four steps for most of her patients: a simple cleanser, one active ingredient such as retinol, salicylic acid or vitamin C, a moisturiser and SPF.
Four steps. That’s enough.
Your morning routine
Gentle cleansing if needed, followed by moisturiser and broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 and good UVA protection.
A targeted serum, such as vitamin C, can be included if it suits your skin and addresses a particular concern.
Your evening routine
Cleanse to remove the day’s makeup, sunscreen and impurities. Double cleansing can be helpful when needed, but it isn’t compulsory for everyone.
If you use an active treatment, such as retinol, introduce it gradually and according to the product’s directions and your skin’s tolerance.
Finish with a suitable moisturiser.
Additional products can be introduced when they provide a meaningful benefit.
For example, someone with dehydrated skin may enjoy an additional hydrating essence. Someone managing pigmentation may benefit from a targeted treatment. Someone with sensitive or reactive skin may be better off keeping things particularly simple.
The right routine is not determined by the number of steps. It’s determined by what your skin needs and tolerates.
What if your skin is already irritated?
If your skin has become unusually sensitive, tight, itchy or uncomfortable, consider temporarily simplifying your routine.
Pause non-essential exfoliating acids, scrubs and retinoids while the irritation settles. Use gentle cleansing, a simple moisturiser and appropriate sun protection.
Avoid introducing several new products in an attempt to fix the problem immediately.
Once your skin has recovered, products can be reintroduced one at a time so it is easier to identify what works and what may be causing a reaction.
Persistent, recurrent or severe irritation should be assessed by a GP or dermatologist, particularly if you suspect eczema, rosacea or contact dermatitis.
The NHS guidance on contact dermatitis explains why identifying and avoiding irritating substances is important.
What IrelKGlow believes about Korean skincare
At IrelKGlow, we genuinely love Korean skincare and the innovations, textures and formulations it has introduced to beauty routines around the world.
But loving skincare doesn’t mean believing that everyone needs every trending product.
We believe understanding your skin should come before adding another product to your basket.
Before introducing something new, ask yourself:
What am I trying to improve?
Am I already using something that does the same job?
How will this product fit into my existing routine?
Sometimes a new product really can make a difference. Other times, being consistent with what you’re already using may be the better choice.
And remember, your routine can change over time. Your skin’s needs may change with age, the seasons, your environment or the treatments you’re using.
There is no single routine that works for everybody.
The bottom line: Your skin doesn’t need to look like glass to be healthy
The latest warnings surrounding glass skin aren’t a reason to stop enjoying Korean skincare.
They’re a reminder to be more thoughtful about the advice we follow, the products we combine and the expectations we set for ourselves.
A glowing complexion can be lovely. But it should never come at the expense of your skin’s comfort or health.
The goal isn’t to have somebody else’s skin. It’s to understand and care for your own.
And sometimes, the best thing you can add to your skincare routine is a little more knowledge, rather than another product.
Not sure whether your current skincare routine is right for you?
Take our free Skin Assessment to find out your skin type, your priorities and the ingredients that suit you.
Because at IrelKGlow, skincare should feel personal, not overwhelming.
A note from Irel
I’ve also written something more personal about this, from K-dramas to the pressure social media puts on us to have flawless skin. You can read it in the very first edition of my new Substack, The IrelKGlow Edit: Glass Skin: Have We Forgotten What Real Skin Looks Like?
I’d love you to read it and tell me what you think.
More from the Journal: Glass Skin, Honestly and Why Your Actives Suddenly Sting (and How to Get Back on Them).
Further reading and references
CNN, 8 October 2026: The glass skin Korean beauty trend has risks, experts warn
EADV Congress 2026: Research on misleading claims in viral Korean skincare videos
American Academy of Dermatology: How to safely exfoliate at home
American Academy of Dermatology: Dermatologist-recommended skin care for your 20s