Dark circles aren’t all the same — and that’s exactly why the internet’s “miracle” eye creams so often disappoint. What looks like one problem is really five different types, each with its own cause and its own fix. Use the wrong product for your type and you’ll see no change; match the right one and you finally get somewhere.
Here’s how to find your type — then treat it.
First, the 30-second pinch test
- Colour stays the same → likely Pigmented
- Colour fades → likely Vascular
- It’s a dip or shadow, not a colour → likely Hollow
- Puffy in the morning, flatter by afternoon → likely Fluid Bags
- Firm puffiness that’s there all day → likely Fat Bags
Type 1 — Vascular (a blue-purple tint)
Under-eye skin is the thinnest on your whole body, so the blood vessels beneath show straight through — giving that blue, purple or pinkish tint. It gets worse when you’re tired, dehydrated or run-down, and fades a little when you press the skin.
What helps: strengthening and firming the skin over time so vessels show less — retinal, peptides and steady hydration (plus sleep and water).
- Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum: Ginseng + Retinal — firms and strengthens with gentle retinal. £18.00
- Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Bakuchiol Eye Cream — a softer, retinal-free daily option. £15.90
- SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Probio-Cica Bakuchiol Eye Cream — best if your eye area is sensitive. £21.00
Type 2 — Pigmented (a brown or tan tone)
This is excess melanin in the under-eye skin — from sun exposure, rubbing, and genetics, and it’s very common in warmer and deeper skin tones. The giveaway: the brown colour stays put when you stretch the skin.
What helps: targeted brightening — tranexamic acid, glutathione, niacinamide and vitamin C — plus daily SPF to stop it deepening.
- Mary&May Tranexamic Acid + Glutathione Eye Cream — targeted brightening for uneven, dark-looking under-eyes. £15.00
- Be The Skin Vitavita Circle Zero Eye Cream — brightens, firms and deeply moisturises. £18.00
Type 3 — Hollow (a shadow in the tear trough)
Not a colour at all — a dip. With age we lose fat and collagen under the eye, creating a hollow that casts a grey shadow. It’s largely structural and genetic, so skincare softens the look rather than erasing it.
What helps: plumping and firming — collagen, hyaluronic acid and supportive eye creams — plus clever concealer.
- TIRTIR Collagen Lifting Eye Cream — firms and plumps to soften the shadow. £28.00
- AXIS-Y Vegan Collagen Eye Serum — light, plumping collagen hydration. £22.50
- SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Probio-Cica Bakuchiol Eye Cream — nourishing, barrier-supporting firmness. £21.00
Type 4 — Fluid Bags (morning puffiness that fades)
Fluid pools overnight from salt, alcohol, poor sleep or allergies. You wake up puffy, and it flattens out by the afternoon. Because it comes and goes, it responds well to quick de-puffing.
What helps: cooling, draining and hydration — chilled eye patches and lightweight collagen serums (and easing off the salt and late nights).
- Abib Collagen Eye Patch Jericho Rose Jelly (60 pcs) — instant de-puff. Chill them in the fridge first! £20.90
- AXIS-Y Vegan Collagen Eye Serum — light daily hydration that targets puffiness. £22.50
Type 5 — Fat Bags (firm puffiness that never goes away)
The fat pads that cushion the eye push forward as the skin and muscle around them weaken with age. Unlike fluid bags, these are present all day and often run in families. Skincare can firm the surrounding skin, but this type is the least “fixable” with products alone.
What helps: firming and strengthening skin — retinal and peptides — to improve the look of the area over time.
- SOME BY MI Retinol Intense Triple Action Eye Cream — firming retinol for lasting puffiness. £19.90
- Be The Skin Vitavita Circle Zero Eye Cream — peptides to support and strengthen. £18.00
- Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum: Ginseng + Retinal — gentle retinal to firm the skin. £18.00
The five types at a glance
| Type | Looks like | Key ingredients |
|---|---|---|
| Vascular | Blue-purple tint, fades when stretched | Retinal, peptides, hydration |
| Pigmented | Brown/tan, stays when stretched | Tranexamic acid, glutathione, SPF |
| Hollow | A shadow in the tear trough | Collagen, hyaluronic acid |
| Fluid Bags | Puffy in the morning, fades by afternoon | Cooling patches, light collagen |
| Fat Bags | Firm puffiness, there all day | Retinal, peptides |
A few gentle rules for the eye area
- Always pat products in with your ring finger — never rub or drag.
- Introduce retinal slowly — start 2–3 nights a week.
- Wear SPF every day; it’s the number-one way to stop pigmentation getting worse.
- Be patient and kind — pigmented and vascular circles soften with 8–12 weeks of consistency, while hollows and fat bags are partly structural. A little concealer is a perfectly good part of the toolkit.
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Dark circles are incredibly common — and often not something “wrong” with you at all, just how your face is shaped or how your skin carries pigment. Work out your type, protect the area, stay gentle and consistent, and brighter-looking eyes follow. — Irel x